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Some Answers From Mint Products
Grading and Condition Q: Who grades your coins?
A: Though we do sell some third party graded coins, for the most part we grade the coins ourselves. We have decades of experience and are known for fair, conservative grading. Our president has even worked as a professional coin grader!
Q: I bought an uncirculated coin but it has a blemish on it. I thought uncirculated coins were perfect?
A: Uncirculated coins are coins that show no obvious signs of being circulated i.e.: wear. Uncirculated coins can and do have marks from handling and being stored in mint bags etc. Coins are graded in a 70-point scale with uncirculated coins beginning at MS-60. An MS-70 coin would be perfect (although it can be argued that a perfect coin does not exist). An MS-60 coin can have noticeable defects and marks, whereas an MS-63 coin would be considered choice and would not have serious or very noticeable defects
Q: You are selling a coin as certified MS-64. What does this mean?
A: This is a two part question. First, certified coins are coins which are graded by a third party service then encapsulated in a tamper proof holder to protect the coin and insure its quality. Secondly, the “MS-64” is the actual grade. Coins are graded on a 70 point scale, with “70” being perfect. MS-64 or mint state-64 would be a high grade uncirculated coin that approaches gem quality.
Q: What is a proof coin?
A: A proof coin is a coin struck just for collectors. They are struck with specially prepared dies and blanks. Proof coins are also usually struck twice to give them better then normal detail. Though there are several varieties of proof surfaces most have a mirror surface with deep contrast. It's important to remember that “proof” is a method of manufacture and not a condition. Though most modern proofs (after 1960) are in superb condition, we have had fairly well worn proof coins (say a 1895 half dollar) and yes they still are considered proof!
Q: Are your proof coins “mint proofs?”
A: This is a term many people that are just starting out use and are often confused by. Broken down it can mean a couple of things: The term “mint” can be used to describe a facility that makes coins, as well as a condition, i.e. “mint condition” or “mint state”. We usually describe such coins as Uncirculated to avoid confusion between the two. Proof coins are special strikes for collectors (see above). In short, generally our proof coins are “mint”.
Q: You already told us what proof coins are. What are “proof-like” coins?
A: Proof coins generally come with a mirror surface. This type of surface comes from highly polished dies. It is not unusual for a mint to re-use proof dies or use other highly polished dies to strike standard circulating coins. This will give some coins a mirror surface or proof appearance
Q: What’s the difference between a mint set and a proof set?
A: A mint set contains uncirculated coins intended for circulation and are not closely inspected for quality by the mint before packaging. They are an excellent way to acquire examples of the year's coinage. Proof sets contain coins struck for just collectors (see above proof description). Proof coins are inspected for quality at the mint and generally are the highest quality coins available. Proof coins are usually struck with a mintmark that is only available on proof coins.
Q: What is toning?
A: Toning is a result of a coin's alloy reacting with the environment. The result is a change in the coin's surface color. The color change will vary among the different metals. Copper will begin to turn brown, gold will generally not tone to any degree at all, while silver can run from light gray or brown to rainbow colors to pure black. Attractively toned coins will often bring premiums. I have seen wonderful rainbow toned silver dollars sold at 10 times their normal price just because of this eye appealing color. Coins with mottled or unattractive toning can sometimes be worth less, while coins with just nice light toning will usually bring about the same as an untoned coin. Coins purchased from Mint Products will either be untoned or have light attractive colors.
Q: Can I clean my toned coins?
A: We suggest you don't. Coins are most often best left in their original state and using any abrasive material on a coins surface will most likely cause damage. We have seen coins worth thousands reduced to being coins worth hundreds because of bad cleaning. There are commercial coin “Dips” available, which will remove light toning from a high-grade coins surface. Household ammonia will usually have the same effect. We recommend using extreme care with these chemicals and only experiment on coins of little value.
Ordering and Shipping
Q: Is it safe to enter my credit card on this site!
A: Yes. Our site uses industry standard SSL (secure sockets layer) encryption technology. This means the information you enter on our site will be seen by us and only us. Click on the security link on our home page for more info.
Q: How long will it take to get my order?
A: You should refer to our home page and or individual items on the site for typical shipping times, though at peak times such as holidays processing can take longer. If any significant delay is expected you will be notified. Feel free to call us if you have any questions regarding shipping and delivery times. The time it takes to deliver your order once we send it can vary depending on the shipping method you choose and your proximity to our office.
Q: Do orders ever get lost during shipping?
A: Rarely. But a few never make to their intended destination. If this happens you are not responsible. Because we cannot file a postal claim until 30 days after shipment, some patience on your part may be needed. In any event you can re-order but in most cases we will have to re-charge your account pending resolution of the claim.
Pricing and General Info
Q: I looked at a coin on your site a couple of days ago, I looked again today and the price is higher. Why?
A: Coin prices can change rapidly (both up and down). Gold, silver and platinum prices change throughout the day and the prices of coins made from these metals will be affected by all but the smallest changes.
Q: Your prices are lower than most other websites. Is there something wrong with the coins?
A: Definitely not! While there can be many reasons for others to charge more, we are able to keep our prices low and our quality high due to nearly three decades worth of knowledge gained and numismatic contacts made. This allows us to work on a lower markup, but do tremendous volume.
Q: How can I learn more about coins?
A: Unlike many coin companies we encourage you to learn. We believe our best customers are well-informed customers. To learn more we suggest reading many of the books and publications available in the market place. The most current edition of the “Red Book” is a very good place to start.
Q: I would like to order a 1957 proof set. Are these “new” sets?
A: These are original sets issued and mailed by the mint in 1957. We buy most of our backdated sets on the secondary market and only choose sets with gem quality coins and packaging without any serious defects.
Q: What makes a coin valuable?
A: Mainly supply and demand. Condition also plays an important part in determining value. In short, a coin that is very hard to find and in high grade will tend to be the most valuable. Obviously, coins made from precious metals such as gold will have value without being rare or in high grade. Oddly, age is not a big factor in determining value.
Q: I just came across a box of old coins. What are they worth?
A: It's hard to say with out seeing them. Generally coins that were taken from circulation in the past 40 or so years will not have great value. Coins that were collected or taken from circulation say 100 or so years ago have a better chance of having significant value.
Q: I ordered some proof sets and some don't have certificates of authenticity. Why?
A: Not all U.S. Mint released proof and mint sets came with certificates. In fact, 1986 was the first year COA's (certificates of authenticity) were issued.
Q: How far back can I find Proof sets?
A: The U.S. Mint sold proof sets well back into the 1800's. Because there were not many collectors in those days not many sets were issued. Many have been broken up and all are quite rare. 1936 is the first year of modern collectible proof sets. Even these come with a hefty price tag.
Q: How long have you been dealing in coins?
A: Our president, Jeff Kierstead has been a full time coin dealer since 1978. While still in school he spent much of his time as far back as 1972 collecting and dealing with coins.
Q: We just received a 1975 proof set but it has 1976 coins in it. Is this an error?
A: No. The mint did not strike any 1975 quarters, halves or dollars. They did strike 1776-1976 Bicentennial issues of those coins and included them in the 1975 proof and mint sets.
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